The Times - Serving Waitsburg, Dayton and the Touchet Valley

My mother and I moved to the great State of Washington just before my 12th birthday. First settling on Whidbey Island in north Puget Sound, I immediately fell in love with such local delicacies as steaming bowls of mussels, grilled wild caught salmon, and loganberry pie. Over the years, as I have traveled, and lived, across the different corners of this beautiful state, I am endlessly inspired by the variety and bounty of our regional cuisines.

One of my favorite areas to explore is the Long Beach Peninsula on the southern coast, a region known for its oyster farms, wild razor clams, and cranberry bogs. Halfway up the peninsula, at Klipsan Beach is a cozy cabin that was built by John's great-grandfather. When our schedules allow, this cherished spot is the perfect setting for rest, rejuvenation, and recipe testing. It was during some of these ocean getaways that I developed the recipe for this flavorful seafood stew. Easily adaptable to whatever is fresh at the local fish and shellfish markets, this delightful dish comes together quickly in a single pot.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more

1 tablespoon unsalted butter,

1 white onion, finely chopped

1 small fennel bulb, finely chopped, fronds reserved

2 medium carrots, finely chopped

2 teaspoons dried tarragon

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

3 garlic cloves, minced

Pinch crushed pepper flakes

1 cup dry white wine

½ cup clam juice, or fish stock

1 (28-ounce) can chopped tomatoes

2 bay leaves

½ teaspoon paprika

¾ pound baby new potatoes, quartered

1 pound fresh cod fillets, cut into 2-inch cubes

2 pounds littleneck clams

¼ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped

Juice of one lemon

Directions

Wash the clams and soak in a bowl of water for at least 30 minutes while you prep the other ingredients.

In a large heavy pot, melt the butter with the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions, fennel bulb, carrots, and tarragon with a pinch of salt. Sauté until the vegetables are soft and the onions are just translucent, about 8 to 10 minutes. Do not brown. Then add the garlic and the crushed pepper flakes, cooking for another minute until fragrant. Next raise the heat to medium-high, and add the white wine, then cook, stirring often, until the alcohol cooks out and the liquid is reduced by half. Then add the clam juice, tomatoes, bay leaves, and paprika, stirring to combine. Swish one cup of water in the tomato can and add to the mixture. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes to allow the flavors to meld.

Raise heat back to medium and add the potatoes, cooking until just fork-tender, about 25 minutes. If the stew has thickened too much, add a little more water. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt to taste. Next add the cod and gently stir to cover with the sauce. Bring to a simmer and cover the pot, cooking for about 2 minutes, until fish is just beginning to turn opaque and firm. Drain the clams and add them to the pot. Gently stir into the stew and then cover with lid. Cook for about 5 to 8 minutes, shaking pan occasionally as the clams open. Meanwhile, finely chop the frilly fennel fronds. When the clams have opened, gently stir in the parsley and the minced fronds with the lemon juice. Taste and adjust seasoning, and garnish top with a drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately in shallow bowls with crusty bread for dipping.

Notes:

This recipe is a wonderful base for any combination of fresh seafood you have available. Try it with only shellfish, such as a mixture of clams and mussels. Or try it with other firm fish, such as halibut, rockfish, or salmon. Whole wild spot prawns, if you can find them, would be divine.

Enjoy!