Irish Brown Soda Bread

There are few sensory experiences more inviting than the smell of fresh baked bread filling your home. Though I was once terribly intimidated by bread making, through careful and delicious experimentation it has become a satisfying addition to my kitchen repertoire. While pulling a fresh loaf from the oven is sure to impress special dinner guests, it can also be a wonderful way to elevate a middle-of-the-week meal for two. Recently, while researching recipes in preparation of our family Saint Patrick's Day feast, I was reminded of the approachable ease in making Irish soda breads. Because it is relatively quick to prepare, this richly flavored bread with a craggy texture and delightful crumb has become a fast favorite in our home.

Ingredients:

½ cup wheat germ

1 ¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 ¼ cup whole-wheat flour

½ cup plain cake flour

3 tablespoons brown sugar

1 ½ teaspoons baking soda

1 ½ teaspoons cream of tartar

1 ½ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, plus 1 tablespoon butter melted

1 ½ buttermilk

Directions:

Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat then add the wheat germ. Toast wheat germ until golden brown and fragrant, stirring with a wooden spoon and shaking the pan often. Be careful not to burn. Remove from the pan and cool on a plate. Set aside.

Adjust the rack in the oven to the upper-middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the toasted wheat germ with the three flours, brown sugar, baking soda, cream of tartar, and salt. Use your fingertips or a fork to work the softened butter into the dry ingredients until the texture resembles a coarse crumble.

Next, add the buttermilk, stirring with a fork until the dough just begins to come together. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and gently knead to form a bumpy texture, about 5 to 10 turns. Do not over knead the dough; it will not be smooth. Over mixed or kneaded dough will result in a tough bread.

Pat the dough into a round, 6 inches in diameter and 2 inches high. Place bread on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and score the loaf with a sharp knife, making a cross shape over the top.

Place pan in hot oven and bake until bread is evenly golden brown and cooked through, about 45 to 55 minutes. The loaf is done when a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, or when a thermometer inserted reaches 190 degrees. When done, remove the bread from the oven, brush the top with the melted butter, and cool to room temperature on a wire rack about 30 minutes.

Notes:

Pay close attention when measuring the dry ingredients for the dough as the ratios are very important to a perfect loaf. Because it is a key ingredient in the recipe, make sure that your baking soda is not too old or stale. The dough for this brown soda bread will be slightly sticky and wet compared to some white soda bread recipes being quite similar to scone dough.

This rustic soda bread, also called Wheaten Bread, is found across Ireland where it is served daily from breakfast to dinner. Serve it simply with a high quality salted butter and jam at breakfast or afternoon tea. It is also wonderful slathered in butter and served on the side of steaming bowls of soup or stew. Try it as part of an appetizer board with various cheeses and cured meats, or smoked salmon. For last week's festivities, I served this bread with scratch-made corned beef and a buttery batch of colcannon. Enjoy!