The Times - Serving Waitsburg, Dayton and the Touchet Valley

Inspired by the world-class winemakers of our region, and the phenomenal growing conditions in our backyard, last year we planted three rows of little Cabernet Sauvignon starts next to the plum trees. From little twigs they have doubled in size this year, adapting beautifully to their protected sunny spot. While it will be a few years before we harvest enough fruit to make wine, the beautiful tender leaves had me researching a Mediterranean culinary favorite, stuffed grape leaves also called dolmas or sarmas. This vegetarian version, with a filling of bulgur and white beans, makes a satisfying and unique appetizer.

Ingredients:

1 15-ounce can of white beans, drained and coarsely chopped

1 ½ cups bulgur

¼ cup fresh mint, minced

½ teaspoon crushed chili flakes

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt and black pepper

2 tablespoons tomato paste, divided

30 to 50 fresh grape leaves, or jarred (see notes)

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 lemons, plus more for serving

Directions:

If using fresh grape leaves, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Rinse the leaves and trim off the stems. Working in batches, drop the leaves in the boiling water and blanch for 30 to 45 seconds. Leaves will turn a golden-olive color. Drain the leaves in a colander, then lay flat on a clean kitchen towel to dry.

In a mixing bowl combine the beans, bulgur, mint, chili flake, and cumin. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Dissolve one tablespoon of the tomato paste in 1 cup of warm water, then pour and mix into the bulgur mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Prepare a large, heavy-bottomed cooking pot by lightly oiling the bottom. Slice one of the lemons into thin rounds and arrange the lemon slices in a single flat layer. Next top the lemon slices with any leaves that are too big, too small, or torn making an even layer of grape leaves.

Assemble the stuffed grape leaves. On a clean work surface lay one leaf shiny side down, with the stem end towards you. Depending on the size of the leaf, place 1 to 2 teaspoons of the filling at the bottom center of the leaf in a little rectangle shape. You do not want to overstuff the grape leaves and remember that the bulgur will expand when cooked. First, fold the bottom end up over the filling, then fold the sides over like an envelope. Starting at filling, roll the leaf away from you, tucking loose edges in, forming a tight little cigar shape. You want them to be tight enough to keep their shape but allow a little room for the filling to cook. As you assemble, arrange the rolled leaves in a prepared pot, seam side down, and packed tightly. You will have 2 to 3 layers of the stuffed grape leaves.

Next, in a large skillet, heat the 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Sauté the onions with a pinch of salt until translucent. Add the remaining tablespoon of tomato paste and cook for a few minutes until fragrant. Pour in 1 ½ cups warm water, stir to combine, and bring to a boil. Pour the cooking liquid over the pot of rolls to just cover, adding more water if needed to reach the top. Place one or two heavy plates over the top to keep everything in place. Cover with a lid and set over medium heat, cooking for 40 to 45 minutes, until the water is absorbed, and the filling is cooked through. Adjust heat if the water is cooking off too quickly and add more water if needed. When done, remove from the heat and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Remove rolls and arrange on a serving platter, squeeze the juice of the second lemon over the top then drizzle with olive oil. Serve warm.

Notes:

If you don't have access to fresh grape leaves you can find jars of grape leaves in large grocery or specialty stores, usually in the Mediterranean section. If using jarred, drain the leaves from the brine, then rinse off the excess salt in cold water. Drain and dry in a colander.

Bulgur is a cracked parboiled whole grain wheat often available in bulk food sections of grocery stores. If you cannot find bulgur you can substitute short-grain white rice. Presoak the rice in cold water for 15 minutes, drain thoroughly, then continue with the steps to make the filling.

Serve these as part of a Mediterranean mezze spread, with grilled meats, salads, olives, and dips. Lovely with a yogurt dipping sauce, or simply with fresh lemon wedges on the side. Enjoy!