The Columbia River Gorge and The Dalles were unknown to me when I moved to Walla Walla 14 years ago. The Dalles Dam and the power and volume of the Columbia River were intriguing. Still, I had yet to learn of the natural and cultural history of the area, let alone the splendor of spring wildflowers and the plethora of birds and wildlife. Discovery is unbridled when moving to a new location, and the rich history of the Columbia River Gorge is brimming with opportunities and experiences.
My only experience with The Dalles was at 75 miles per hour on Interstate 84 or when stopped at The Dalles Dam for work. However, in May, I found myself waking to the beautiful views of Mount Hood at the Columbia River Hotel, and expanding my mind and photography portfolio with everything fascinating about The Dalles and its surroundings.
April and May offer spectacular wildflower hikes. Areas including Rowen Crest and Horsethief Butte offer a blanket of arrowleaf balsamroot, common yarrow, paintbrush, various white and violet penstemons, yellow and burgundy biscuitroots, and purple lupine. The kaleidoscope palette stands out vibrantly against the snow-capped peaks of Mount Hood and Mount Adams as their peaks rise above the landscape while hiking up the walls of the Gorge. Spring Chinook season is hot and heavy, as are the trout in Bikini Lake. While these experiences are alluring, all that The Dalles and the Gorge have to offer are steeped in cultural history.
Sharing adventures and education through stories and images is a profoundly human experience. It's the foundation of communication and societal development. Without pencil, paper, smartphones, or computers, Native Americans captured their stories through pictographs, using plant dyes, and petroglyphs by carving rock – stories that remain today, offering education and wonder. Fortunately, Horsethief Lake in the Columbia Hills Historical State Park offers a glimpse of the stories etched in stone.
Developed by The Dalles Dam, Horsethief Lake is situated at the foot of Horsethief Butte within a 3,300-acre landscape canvas of natural history and wonder. The area is home to the Wishram people, where their village, "Nix lui dix" (The Trading Place), was located below Horsethief Butte. The area with narrow river channels, situated near Celilo Falls, was prime for trade and fishing, and the stories of which are displayed on basalt.
The Horsethief Butte area is said to have thousands of pictographs and petroglyphs submerged beneath the pool formed by The Dalles Dam in 1957, though a few remain accessible within the park. Fortunately, the Wana Pa Koot Koot working group helped ensure that these fascinating images were relocated to Horsethief Lake in 2021. They now line the Temani Pesh-Wa (written in stone) Trail at Horsethief Lake. The ADA-accessible trail is open to the public from April to October. The paintings and etchings span from 350 to 10,000 years old and depict a range of wildlife, people, and other spiritual beings. Additional panels can be found along the hiking trails within the park, including one of special significance.
"Tsagaglalal" (She Who Watches) stands at the end of a trail lined with pictographs. Legend suggests that the trickster Coyote cast this powerful woman chief into stone, where she could watch over her people and the river forever. The painting is bold, detailed, artistic, and captivating. Tsagaglalal is one of the most well-known Native American pictographs; her watchful eyes remind us that history is ever-present. She may only be seen via a park ranger-guided tour to keep her protected.
In addition to its scenic beauty and rich history, Columbia Hills Historical State Park offers family-friendly activities including swimming, boating, hiking, and camping. It is also a popular destination for rock climbing. Additionally, The Dalles is just minutes away, offering an architecturally unique downtown with a charming atmosphere and various fascinating museums, such as the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and the National Neon Sign Museum. There's something for everyone.
If you need a quick, easy escape from routine, head west on Washington's scenic Highway 14 to find discovery, recreation, and reverence at Columbia Hills Historical State Park and The Dalles.
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