The Times - Serving Waitsburg, Dayton and the Touchet Valley

I’m a believer in old vine Chenins, so much so that I gave up several lucrative wine writing gigs in order to make a few hundred cases under my short-lived Waitsburg Cellars label. Some of those grapes came from the same Upland Vineyard vines that L’Ecole has sourced for decades, and to my knowledge, there are no better Chenins in the Northwest than these. Rather than the simple fruit bombs that most Chenins resemble, this old vine bottling is delicate, dusty, and detailed, a subtle wine that rewards your attention with cascading details and surpassing depth. Apple, white peach, zesty orange,...