The Times - Serving Waitsburg, Dayton and the Touchet Valley

Autumn is my favorite time of year for celebrations centered around food. High on the list is the colorful and distinctly Mexican tradition of Día de los Muertos. In our house, the mantle is turned into an ofrenda with photos of departed family members, marigolds, and candles. On the night of November 1st, I prepare a feast to be enjoyed by the living and shared with the spirits of the dead. Over the years, I have made various dishes for this special occasion including tamales, pozole, sopa de albondigas, and enchiladas. These spiced beef enchiladas embrace the season with roasted pumpkin and a rich, deeply flavored homemade sauce.

Ingredients:

For the sauce:

8 dried ancho chiles

4 dried pasilla or guajillo chiles

1 medium white onion, quartered

2 plum tomatoes

3 cloves garlic

½ teaspoon dried oregano, Mexican preferred

½ teaspoon dried marjoram

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 tablespoon honey or agave syrup

Salt to taste

For the filling:

1 pound pumpkin, peeled and ½ -diced

2 teaspoons cumin, plus 1 teaspoon

1 teaspoon ground red chili, cayenne, or chipotle

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Canola oil

½ white onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 pound ground beef

1 teaspoon dried oregano

10 to 12 corn tortillas

½ cup queso fresco, crumbled or sharp cheddar

Directions:

Make the sauce: Seed and stem the dried chiles. In a hot dry cast iron skillet, toast the chiles until fragrant, about 15 seconds per side. Remove from pan and set in a large pot. Next, char the onion, whole tomatoes, and garlic cloves in the hot skillet. Take your time to develop some dark char marks. Remove from the pan and add to the pot with the chiles. Add just enough water to almost cover the chiles and vegetables. Stir in the oregano and marjoram then bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a simmer, and cook for 15 minutes, uncovered.

Add the softened vegetables and chiles to blender jar with the cooking water. Carefully, blend on low for a minute until smooth. Remember to open vent when blending hot liquids. Blend in two batches if needed. Strain mixture though a fine mesh strainer over a bowl. Use a rubber spatula to push all the liquid through.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large pot over medium-high. Pour strained liquid into pot and "fry the sauce." Reduce the heat and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes, uncovered, until sauce has thickened. Then, add honey or agave syrup, and season to taste with salt. Take off the heat and allow sauce to rest for at least 1 hour. Sauce can be made a day ahead of time and stored in the fridge until ready to use.

Make filling: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl toss the pumpkin, 2 teaspoons cumin, ground chili, 1 teaspoon kosher salt (or ½ teaspoon fine salt), with about 2 tablespoons of oil. Spread on a foil lined baking sheet and set in middle rack of oven. Roast for 15 minutes, stir, and then bake for an additional 10 to 15 minutes, until pumpkin is tender. Let cool slightly on baking sheet.

Meanwhile, in a skillet heat a tablespoon of oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion with a pinch of salt. Sauté until soft, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic, sautéing for another minute, then add the beef, 1 teaspoon cumin, and oregano. Continue to cook, browning and crumbling the beef. Reduce heat to low, add the roasted pumpkin and 3 tablespoons of the enchilada sauce. Gently mix to combine. Don't mash the pumpkin. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more salt as needed. Take off heat and set aside.

In a skillet, heat a couple tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, quickly fry tortillas, one at a time, until just soft (not crispy), about 5 seconds per side. Use tongs to gently remove tortillas from oil without ripping, and stack on a plate lined with paper towels.

Assemble enchiladas: Pour a thin layer of the enchilada sauce in the bottom of a 9 by 13-inch baking dish. Place a tortilla on work surface and spoon a few heaping tablespoons of filling in a row down middle of tortilla. Carefully, roll from the side closest to you, tightly packing the filling to make a rolled enchilada. Place seam side down in the pan and repeat with remaining tortillas. When pan is full, pour more enchilada sauce over the tops and sides. Sauce should come up about halfway up the sides of enchiladas. You will not use all the sauce. Top with the crumbled queso fresco. Bake in 375-degree oven for 15 to 25 minutes until sauce is bubbling and cheese is lightly browned.

Notes: Of course, in a pinch you can use your favorite canned red enchilada sauce. However, this sauce recipe is easy and deeply flavorful. Leftover sauce can be used for chilaquiles, an enhancement to soup bases, or just a lovely chili sauce for roasted vegetables or meats.

This week I served this dish with rice and John's fresh tomatillo salsa on the side. Enjoy!