Salmon Gravlax

Of the many foods that define the Pacific Northwest, such as apples, berries, wild mushrooms, and shellfish, at the top of the list is the mighty salmon. Culturally and spiritually significant to our various indigenous tribes, salmon was also quickly revered by settler communities. Flavorful and versatile, the many ways to eat salmon represent the diverse cultures that have also come to define this beautiful part of the world. Here I have an easy recipe for gravlax, a Scandinavian style cured salmon that makes an elegant and memorable dish.

Ingredients:

2-pound fresh salmon fillet, skin on (see notes)

1 tablespoon whole peppercorns

1 tablespoon juniper berries

1 tablespoon crushed red pepper (optional)

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

2 teaspoons whole fennel seeds

1 teaspoon celery seeds

¼ cup fresh chives, minced

¼ cup fresh dill, minced

¼ cup fresh thyme, minced

Zest of one lemon

8 ounces rock salt (see notes)

8 ounces white sugar

Directions:

With the flat side of a large knife, or in a mortar and pestle, coarsely crush the peppercorns, juniper berries, carraway seeds with the fennel seeds. Then add to a bowl along with the red pepper, celery seeds, chives, dill, thyme, lemon zest, sugar, and salt. Mix to combine.

Rinse salmon filet in cold water, then pat completely dry with paper towels. Use tweezers to carefully remove any pin bones from the salmon fillet.

On work surface, place two large sheets of parchment or wax paper, slightly overlapping. Spread about half of the salt mixture on paper, roughly in the shape of the salmon. Place filet, skin side down over the salt, then top with the remaining salt mixture. Make sure the salt mixture is spread evenly and thickly over the entire piece of fish. Wrap paper tightly around filet to completely cover. Place wrapped salmon in a large zip-top plastic bag, press out as much air as possible and seal the bag. Cover the filet with a smaller dish, or cutting board, and place weights on top such as a couple of cans from the pantry.

Set dish in the refrigerator to cure. After first 12 hours, flip salmon, then return weights and set back in fridge. Repeat after another 12 hours. After another 12 hours, remove salmon from fridge, 36 hours total for a medium cure (see notes). Unwrap the salmon, scrape off the salt mixture, and gently rinse clean under cold water. Pat dry and return to a clean dish. Set dish back in the fridge and chill for another 3 to 12 hours uncovered. This final time in the fridge allows the surface to dry slightly and gives the salt more time to evenly permeate the fillet.

When ready to serve, use a very sharp knife and cut at an angled bias, to make thin slices off the skin. Do not cut through or serve the skin. Garnish with fresh dill. Stored in a covered dish, gravlax is good to serve for 3 to 5 days after curing.

Notes:

This dish requires using the highest quality fish you can find. Look for fresh, wild-caught Pacific Northwest or Alaskan salmon fillets. Some stores will label the best fish as "sashimi grade." Avoid farmed salmon. A high-quality fish that has been flash frozen will work, when fully thawed in the fridge before curing. If getting fillets from a larger salmon, such as a Chinook salmon, look for center cut fillets. Fresh wild salmon is in season May through late September.

The specific salt used in this recipe is also important. You want to use a pure, culinary rock or coarse salt. A coarse kosher salt will work, too. DO NOT use fine table salt, as the cure will be too salty. Also, do not use an iodized salt, as it will discolor the fish.

A medium cure (36 hours) will have a firm outside, and a softer cured (but not raw) center. You can add another 12 hours of curing time in the salt mixture (48 hours total), for a firmer, hard cure gravlax. Both versions will be noticeably less salty than store bought gravlax. This recipe is for a 2-pound fillet of salmon but can easily be halved for a one-pound piece of fish. Curing time will be about the same, unless the fillet is very thin.

Serve slices of gravlax, with your favorite accompaniments, as an appetizer or as part of a brunch spread. Classics include slices of rye toast, cream cheese or crème fraiche, stone ground mustard, thin sliced red onion, and capers. Try slices wrapped around blanched asparagus with a homemade hollandaise sauce, for a special seasonal treat. Enjoy!