French Onion Soup Gratinée

When I lived in Seattle, one of my favorite spots for relaxed dining was Le Pichet on First Avenue, just up the hill from Pike Place Market. Watching traffic pass by, while enjoying refined bistro fare, I felt transported to a Parisian sidewalk café. This time of year, as late summer moves into fall, I would anticipate the return of a favorite menu item, their French Onion Soup. With sweet, caramelized onions melded into a rich stock topped with country bread and melted cheese, this comforting dish is a classic. Recently, with the cooler nights, and maybe a tinge of missing city living, I found myself craving this soup.

Ingredients:

2 pounds yellow onions, cut in half lengthwise and sliced thin (about 8 cups)

3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon salt (plus more to taste)

¼ teaspoon sugar

3 tablespoons flour

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 cup dry white wine

2 quarts beef stock

Fresh ground black pepper

3 tablespoons cognac, or good quality brandy

Baguette or crusty French bread

2 cups grated Gruyère, Comté or Swiss cheese

Directions:

In a Dutch oven, melt butter with oil over medium-low heat. Add onions, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf, stirring into butter. Cover pot and cook for 15 minutes, stirring once halfway. Uncover, raise heat to medium, then add salt and sugar. Caramelize onions, stirring frequently, until they turn a deep golden brown. This will take anywhere from 40 to 60 minutes. Regulate temperature, and keep an eye on the pot, to make sure onions evenly caramelize without scorching or burning. Meanwhile, in separate stockpot, bring the beef stock to a boil then cover and keep hot.

When onions are caramelized, add the flour and cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add sherry vinegar and stir briskly to cook off vinegar. Next, add the wine, stir, and scrape the bottom of pan. When fully mixed in, take off the heat and pour in the hot stock. Stir and make sure any clumps of flour are fully dissolved. Return pot to burner, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer. Taste, adjust seasoning by adding more salt and plenty of fresh ground black pepper to taste. Cook for 40 minutes, partially covered, skimming off foam and stirring occasionally. When done, remove bay leaf and thyme stems, then allow to cool uncovered off heat.

While the soup is simmering, preheat oven to 325 degrees. Slice baguette into 1-inch-thick rounds and place in a single layer on a baking sheet. Toast in oven for 20 to 30 minutes, turning once, allowing to evenly dry out and toast to a light golden brown.

Raise oven to 375 degrees. When ready to serve, return pot of soup to a boil on stove top. Stir in the cognac, and taste for seasoning one last time, adjusting if necessary. Pour soup into large oven-proof serving dish. Place rounds of toasted bread decoratively across the surface, then top each with a clump of grated cheese. Drizzle a few drops of olive oil over the top of cheese. Place in hot oven and bake for about 20 minutes, until sides are bubbly, and cheese has melted and browned. Final browning can also be done under the broiler. Ladle soup into serving bowls, with 1 or 2 bread rounds each. Serve with extra bread on the side.

Notes:

Some things in the kitchen cannot be rushed. Taking time to carefully caramelize the onions is crucial to the flavor of this soup. Caramelizing slowly results in sweet and evenly browned onions. Keep a close eye and periodically scrape up the browned bits from bottom. During the last 10 minutes, raise the heat slightly to encourage browning, but don't step away from the pan, and keep stirring! You will be amazed at how much the onions reduce.

While Le Pichet uses chicken stock, in my version I opted for the traditional beef stock. Either will work or try a mix of the two.

After an appetizer of duck pâté with John's homemade baguette, I served this soup with a bright kale and grain salad on the side, for a chic French bistro inspired meal. This soup pairs beautifully with structured floral whites such as Viognier or lightly oaked Chardonnay, or with lean and fruit forward reds like Pinot Noir or Gamay. Bon Appétit! Enjoy.