The Times - Serving Waitsburg, Dayton and the Touchet Valley

Kohlrabi, with its funny name and alien appearance, is the type of overlooked vegetable that can seem intimidating to most home cooks. Originating from northern Europe, kohlrabi is in the brassica family, related to kale, broccoli, and cabbage. Both the bulbous stem and the sprouting leaves are edible, with a sweet crisp flavor that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. This past week, the first kohlrabi of the season was ready to pick in our garden, a welcomed change from the recent endless bounty of zucchini. Here the bulb is roasted, and the greens are sautéed separately, before being combined into a creamy sauce to toss with fluffy gnocchi.

Ingredients:

I to 2 kohlrabi bulbs, about 1-pound, peeled

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, minced

1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced

Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

4 slices thick-cut bacon

3 cloves garlic, sliced

Pinch crushed chili flakes, to taste

1 cup kohlrabi greens, thinly sliced (see notes)

1 small onion, finely diced

1 carrot, finely diced

1 celery rib, finely diced

1 tablespoon fresh sage, minced

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup chicken stock

1 cup whole milk

1-pound gnocchi, homemade or store-bought

¼ cup fresh basil, torn or sliced

¼ cup parmesan, fresh grated, plus more

Directions:

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Cut kohlrabi into half-inch cubes. In mixing bowl, toss kohlrabi cubes with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, rosemary, thyme, and season with a pinch of salt. Spread evenly on baking sheet, and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes. Kohlrabi is done when tender and golden brown. Remove from oven and set aside.

Slice bacon into half-inch strips and place in cold Dutch oven. Set pan over medium heat, cook until fat has rendered, and bacon is just crisp. Remove bacon with slotted spoon to drain on plate lined with paper towel and set aside. Drain all but one tablespoon of bacon fat and return pan to moderate heat. Add sliced garlic and crushed chili flake. Sauté for a minute until garlic is lightly golden and fragrant. Add greens all at once. Sauté for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until greens are tender but still bright green. When done, add greens to roasted kohlrabi and set aside.

Bring large stock pot of salted water to a boil over medium heat. Meanwhile, add butter and 1 tablespoon of olive oil to Dutch oven and return to medium heat. When butter is hot, add onion, carrot, celery, sage, and a pinch of salt. Season to taste with fresh ground black pepper, and sauté for 5 minutes, until onions are translucent. Add flour and continue to cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until paste is foamy. Whisk in stock, making sure to scrape up all the butter and flour paste from sides of pan. When smooth, add milk and continue to whisk and cook over medium heat. Cook until sauce is silky smooth and slightly reduced. Reduce heat to low, then stir in roasted kohlrabi, greens, and bacon.

Add gnocchi to rapidly boiling water and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, until they float to surface. Drain and add gnocchi to pan with sauce. Add parmesan and toss until fully mixed. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more salt or pepper, if needed, then take off heat. Serve immediately, garnishing top with fresh basil and more grated parmesan.

Notes:

Kohlrabi is found in many grocery stores and farmers markets, late summer through fall. It is often sold with its green leaves still attached. If you don't have any kohlrabi greens to work with, you can substitute fresh spinach, chard or kale. Trim the root end of the bulb and peel off the two outer layers of tough fibrous skin. If you can't find kohlrabi, try this recipe with turnips or rutabaga.

Gnocchi, which are small Italian potato and flour dumplings, can be found packaged in the same aisle as dry pasta. They can also sometimes be found in the freezer, or in the refrigerated fresh pasta section. If you have the time, and patience, making them homemade can be a fun endeavor.

Serve this with a lush, yet dry, white wine such as a Willamette Valley chardonnay, a pinot Blanc, or a fruity pinot grigio. On a recent perfect summer evening, we enjoyed this creamy pasta dining alfresco on our back deck with a simple crisp salad on the side. Enjoy!