Recently, someone asked me about the validity of Califor­nia Cuisine in today's restaurant market. I was surprised by this question because without California Cuisine, we'd still be eating canned foods, meat and vegetables dusted in DDT. In fact, the way we think about and eat food today is based entirely on the fresh food movement of the 1970s and '80s known as California Cuisine.

Think about it. Without the early integrated food move­ment, we wouldn't see regional, fresh vegetables listed on our menus today, including baby carrots, mixed lettuces, EVOO, balsamic vinegar, roasted red bell peppers, portabella mush­rooms, blue potatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, walnut, cilantro and mint pesto, blackened foods, feta cheese, caramelized tofu and the list goes on and on. As a young line cook in Santa Cruz, I wanted to prepare more than just steak thrown on a plate, and I created a dish I call "Latino-Sichuan Stir-Fry." This dish is made of indig­enous ingredients of the region. Is there a thirst-quenching beverage suggestion for Latino-Sichuan Stir-Fry? My personal favorite, and earning 9-Bar­rels

from Wine and Country Living, is Skye Book and Brew's "Winter Stout." You'll love the tickle of this brew's chocolate head, and it's malted-bourbon finish is crisp and clean.

Latino-Sichuan Stir-Fry

Serves 4

2-tablespoons raw sesame oil

1-tablespoon red chili oil

1-yellow onion, chopped

2-tablespoons minced fresh garlic

1-red bell pepper, chopped

1-yellow bell pepper, chopped

1-cup mushrooms, chopped

2-cups fresh baby spinach leaves

2-cups kale leaves, chopped

1-cup tofu, cubed

2-tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1-teaspoon each: ginger, paprika, cumin,

chili powder, onion salt

¼-cup sherry wine

1-cup feta crumbles

1-cube melted butter

1-teaspoon curry powder

1-teaspoon cardamom

Method:

In a hot wok, add oil. When shimmering, add all other ingredients except feta. Stir well to tender, about seven minutes. Add tofu and caramelize, tossing frequently about three minutes. Add sherry and deglaze pan, three minutes. Add feta, toss and when melting, spoon ingredients over mashed yams that have been seasoned with melted butter whisked with curry and cardamom.

Hear Judith Speak @www.chef judithhenderson.com