The Times - Serving Waitsburg, Dayton and the Touchet Valley

With the warmer days and the first flowers blooming, my mind has turned to planning some springtime entertaining. A decadent weekend brunch with friends, full of lively conversation, and hopefully a mimosa or two, is a favorite daytime option. Here, my recipe for a classic hollandaise sauce is poured over a seasonal variation of eggs benedict, featuring cured salmon and fresh asparagus in place of the Canadian bacon.

Ingredients:

For the Hollandaise:

4 egg yolks

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Pinch of cayenne or paprika

Pinch of salt

For the Eggs Benedict:

1 bunch of fresh asparagus

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 English muffins, split

8 eggs

2 teaspoons white vinegar

8 oz thin sliced salmon lox

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

Fresh tarragon, minced, for garnish

Directions:

Make the Hollandaise. Place a saucepan of water over medium heat and bring to a simmer. In a metal mixing bowl, vigorously whisk the egg yolks with the lemon juice until the mixture has thickened and doubled in volume. Next, place the bowl over the saucepan, turning the temperature down to keep the water just barely at a simmer. The water should not touch the bottom of the bowl. Continue to whisk rapidly, being careful to not let the eggs get too hot, or they will scramble. Now, slowly pour in the melted butter, in a steady stream, while continuing to whisk, until the sauce has doubled in volume. The sauce should be velvety smooth and thick pourable consistency. If the sauce is too thick, whisk in warm water in tablespoon additions. Take off heat and whisk in the salt and cayenne. Taste and adjust seasoning. Cover and set aside in a warm spot.

Prepare the ingredients for the benedicts. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Break off the tough ends of the asparagus, then cut spears in half, making about 3-inch segments. Toss asparagus in the boiling water and blanch for 3 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water. Asparagus should still have a crunch to them. Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add asparagus and sauté until heated through and edges start to lightly brown, about 4 minutes. Take off heat and season with salt and pepper. While asparagus is cooking, toast the English muffin halves, and keep warm on a plate.

Meanwhile, fill a high-sided skillet halfway with water and the white vinegar. Set over moderate heat and bring to a slow boil. Stir water rapidly clockwise, to create a little whirlpool. Gently break one egg into the water, being careful to keep white and yolk intact. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and poach eggs for 3 ½ minutes, until the whites are set, and the yolks are still soft. Remove eggs with a slotted spoon and drain on a plate lined with a paper towel.

Now assemble the benedicts. Arrange asparagus spears over half of the English muffin halves, then slices of lox over the other half. Place a poached egg on top of each, seasoning with a dash of salt. Then spoon hollandaise sauce over each, allowing sauce to cover egg and drip down sides. Sauce can be gently reheated, whisking the entire time, before serving over a gentle steam if needed. Garnish tops with a pinch of cayenne and a sprinkle of tarragon. Serve one of each, asparagus and salmon, to each guest.

Notes:

While cooking, do not leave sauce over simmering water unattended, as this could cause the sauce to "break" or separate. Do not panic if your sauce breaks. Quickly take the bowl off heat, then rapidly whisk in a few tablespoons of cold water, until texture smooths out. Be patient and keep whisking, adding more water as needed, until the sauce is saved. Return bowl to the pot of simmering water to reheat.

Hollandaise is one of the five classic "mother sauces" of French cuisine, so named because they are used as the base for countless other sauces and variations. A crucial step in the formal training of professional chefs, mastering these sauces can also help build kitchen confidence for home cooks.

Best known in America as a key component of eggs Benedict, hollandaise also makes a gorgeous sauce to serve with seasonal vegetable side dishes, such as asparagus, or with poached fish entrées. Fresh herbs or a spoonful of Dijon can be whisked in for added flavor. Bon Appetit!