When I started this column about 8 month ago I wanted to showcase, from time to time, something extraordinary, something special, that is the result of the passion of our regional chefs. I wanted my first offer- ing to showcase the amazing dishes I found but we decided to focus on hyper-local and talk about Waitsburg first just to establish the column.

I think now that enough time has passed that I can cast the net a little wider and welcome a treat that is just down the road into the mix. Pastrami! This is not some pathetic excuse for pastrami. You know the kind - the stuff that makes you...