In an American culinary culture that is endlessly chasing the latest gastronomic trends, it is sometimes nice to revisit the understated classics that home cooks have been making for generations. At the top of this list, are cozy casseroles that make satisfying meals out of a few budget-friendly pantry ingredients. By making a few adjustments, it is easy to update some of these familial dishes to reflect modern tastes. Skipping the cans of condensed soup, this recipe for Tuna Noodle Casserole is held together with a creamy sauce folded with sauteed celery and mushrooms. Capers and chopped pimentos add a lively bright note, while crushed potato chips make a perfect crisp topping that still nods to its vintage roots.

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons butter, plus more for greasing the pan

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

12 ounces wide egg noodles

1 ½ cups finely chopped celery, about 4 ribs

1 large white onion, chopped

1 pound mushrooms, sliced ¼-inch thick

2 tablespoons drained capers, roughly chopped

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

2 cups chicken stock

1 cup half-and-half

¼ cup dry white wine

2 (5-ounce) cans tuna, drained and flaked with a fork

1 cup frozen peas

¼ cup fresh parsley, minced, plus more for garnish

2 tablespoons pimentos, drained and chopped

½ cup shredded white cheddar

2 cups plain, salted potato chips, crushed

Pinch of paprika

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 9-by-13 baking dish or 3-quart casserole dish with a little butter.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the egg noodles to just al-dente according to the package directions. Don't overcook the pasta. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a heavy pot or Dutch-oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and celery, season with a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and translucent, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook, until they are tender, about 6 minutes. Next, add the capers and the garlic, cooking until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir until no steaks of raw flour remain and cook for another minute. Then pour in the stock, half-and-half, and the wine, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Raise the heat and bring mixture to a boil. Season with salt and black pepper. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Continue to cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan occasionally, until the sauce has thickened, about 5 to 8 minutes.

Take the pan off the heat, then add the tuna, peas, parsley, and pimentos. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt or pepper as needed. Next, add the cooked noodles and toss to evenly combine. Transfer the mixture to the greased baking dish, smoothing out to an even layer. Sprinkle the top first with the grated cheese and then with the crushed potato chips. Dust lightly with a pinch of paprika for color. Bake, uncovered, until casserole is hot and bubbling, about 25 minutes. Serve garnished with more chopped parsley.

Notes:

As it is a key ingredient, shop for the best quality tuna you can find. I prefer the flavor of tuna that is packed in oil, but cans packed in water will also work. If possible, look for sustainable, pole caught tuna.

If you cannot find jars of sweet pimentos, you could substitute with roasted red peppers.

The crushed potato chips add a fun, retro feel to this casserole. Other options for the crispy topping include, crushed butter crackers (such as Ritz), or panko breadcrumbs tossed in melted butter.

I served this dish with a vibrant, green salad on the side and a bottle of Pinot Gris. Enjoy.