The Times - Serving Waitsburg, Dayton and the Touchet Valley

Welcome back to the second part of the Spring "what to drink now" wine column continuing the saga of "what do I drink now in this post-winter freeze period" where the easy choice is heavy reds. As promised in last month's install­ment where I blathered on about moving into the world of lighter-bodied reds, I'm now shifting towards the medium body aromatic whites. These wines are perfect for those optimistically warmer days of spring where the mornings are fresh and clean, the afternoons threaten some heat but do not quite get there and the nights still require a jacket and maybe a fire. Unlike those lighter-bodied reds, which are really the provenance of other regions rather than our own Walla Walla valley, getting your hands on some medium-bodied whites made right here in Washington is a particularly easy task to check off the list.

Washington state, and even better - many Walla Walla wineries - are quite adept at producing great chardonnay and riesling for which we are rightly admired and awarded accolades and praise. We get to boast about our neighbors like Abeja, àMaurice, Buty, Dunham Cellars and Woodward Canyon Winery all produce world-class chardonnay while Long Shadows, Chateau St. Michelle and Pacific Rim are crafting serious rieslings that are fantastically delicious. This picture however is incomplete in terms of what's available to you in your own backyard. As great as these wines are, I like to look for something beyond the obvious choice and stretch out a little.

We are extremely fortunate here in Washington State to have a broad interest in other white varieties from all corners of the wine world. From the growers in the vineyards, the wine-making community and wine-drinking consumers alike, Washington state has probably the most interesting and diverse culture of grape growing and utilization of the three west coast states. Sauvignon blanc, sémillon, chenin blanc, viognier and pinot gris are all produced by many vintners but there is also a smattering of many other grapes as well - you know - the one's that you see now and again with weird names? Gewürztraminer and muscat canelli, marsanne and rousanne and even some aligoté are grown in Washington State and are used to great effect by a variety of wineries. That is not even all of them but you have to draw the line somewhere.

With all these super cool white grapes crushed into wine which way do you go? In sticking with the fresh aromatic spring wine theme, I try to veer clear of the obvious chardon­nay, riesling and pinot gris and look toward some of the other interesting varieties that have been around for a while.

My favorite go-to wines for this time of year happen to come from the same winery - L'Ecole No. 41 just down the road apiece in Lowden along route 12. L'Ecole is a winery that we locals can truly be proud of - they have been making fantastic wines for 30 years now and since their founding in 1983 have been instrumental in putting Walla Walla on the map for wine fans across the globe. Both their Columbia Valley Sémillon and the Columbia Valley Chenin Blanc offer outstanding value for the money and though we sometimes glance over the overly familiar, these should not be overlooked. At the time of this publication, the newest releases (2011 for the sémillon and 2012 on the chenin blanc) are drinking really well and available at the very reasonable price of around $14.

The sémillon is a fantastic showcase of stone fruit blos­soms with some orange and honey on the nose which is fun in and of itself, but it's the flavors that are re­ally a knockout here - lemon and lime, apricots, melon and honeysuckle all come through in a nicely layered and complex wine. Great for pairing with just about any kind of chicken dish!

The Columbia Valley Chenin Blanc is a vibrant de­light with subtle wildflowers, jasmine, and orange blos­soms on the nose with apples, apricots and just a touch of guava and pear on the pal­ate make this a springtime delight that works incredibly well with a wide range of dishes from braised pork loin and chicken dishes, to halibut and sole recipes that don't have too many herbs to them.

As always, I hope you get out and explore our great wine region and all it has to offer. Cheers!